As I mentioned in my last post (a few weeks ago on Father’s Day), I still have most of my Japan trip to write about. A few days ago, I came across this photo on Instagram. I have no idea why it appeared in my feed after so many months.
It reminded me that I needed to devote more time and energy to writing about Japan, and I was up to Marathon day. It is “only” FOUR months since the Marathon. I appreciate your patience in waiting for this description of the keystone day of our two-week trip to Japan. It’s a long read (WordPress says 3500 words and 20 minutes), but I PROMISE the rest of the Japan posts (days 6-13), which I hope to finish in August ( July is my busy summer month), will be much shorter reads.
I had read about Radcliffe’s plans before the race.
https://www.olympics.com/en/news/british-legend-paula-radcliffe-return-marathon-running
She held the Marathon World Record for over a decade. After turning 50, she decided to run the Tokyo and Boston marathons in 2025 and earn her Abbott 6 Star Medal (having not run a marathon in a decade).
At 2:57, she beat me by exactly an hour! But she is 10 years younger, and a former world record holder 😉 She then ran Boston just 6 weeks later in 2:53, winning her age group.
Tokyo would be my Abbott 6th star.
I had run NYC, Boston, and Chicago long ago. Then after doing my first full Ironman race (Lake Placid) in 2016, I wasn’t planning on any more marathons (I had done Los Angeles and the Marine Corps Marathon in D.C. and a few others and there weren’t any more in the U.S. that I felt a “need” to run, the Disney World ones I had NO interest in). However, a few years later, the idea of traveling somewhere exciting for a marathon inspired me to apply for Berlin. In 2019, I won a spot in the lottery for the Berlin Marathon, and at the expo, I saw the Abbott 6 Star display and realized I would only still need to complete London and Tokyo.
The Berlin Marathon was fun. The course traversed both East and West Berlin, concluding at the Brandenburg Gate. It was a rainy and cool day for the race, but there were plenty of fans and music along the course, and I was delighted that they offered hot, sugary tea as a drink option. I managed to finish in 3:48, despite the long travel distance and excessive walking on the days leading up to the race. My week of vacation in Berlin was fantastic. I loved seeing all the sites of its medieval history, WWI and II, and the whole Cold War story and eventual reunification. I had read dozens of books set in Berlin over the years. I had learned enough German with Pimsleur and Duolingo that I could speak with the few people who did not understand English.
I signed up to run the London Marathon in April 2020, but it was canceled due to COVID-19 that year. The following year, they rescheduled it for the fall. In October 2021, I flew to a very empty London, took five COVID-19 tests, and on a perfect day, ran a personal best of 3:41. I had secured my spot through a Marathon Tour company (the only option available to non-Brits) and also signed up to raise money for a charity. There were many options, but WaterAid caught my eye. WaterAid has a simple goal: to provide clean drinking water to the world’s poorest people. What could be a more IDEAL charity goal? New technology, which utilizes solar panels to power pumps and filters, makes it significantly easier than in the past.
https://www.wateraid.org/uk/about-us
I proudly wore the nice shirt they gave me, and after the race, they had a party near the finish line with a buffet and free massages.
I had been to London a few times before so it was nice to not need to go the “big” touristy sites. I did a few things I had missed in the past like a day in Grenwich and took an overnight train to see Edinburgh (which was amazing, of course). I wanted to see Ireland also but the Covid restrictions really made it hard to go from country to country.
Here are some Edinburgh photos.
A great TV series I just watched on Netflix is set there. The accents alone make it worth watching. Department Q is a great detective show, VERY dark and very funny too. Can’t wait for season 2.
The Tokyo Marathon was canceled for two years, and then it was only allowed for Japanese citizens to participate in the following year. As a result, many people who had been deferred had to run before it became available to the world again. I tried for a lottery in 2024 but didn’t get in. For this year, I used the charity bid system and “won” a bib by donating to a charity. This was a highly complex process with unusual rules, and websites translated poorly using Google. Additionally, each charity had a different number of bibs available. I wanted to run for the Japanese LGBT youth organization, but I realized the odds would be too low. Peace Winds had more spots, and after making a charity bid and submitting a written statement, I waited months to find out if I had won a place. It was a very worthy charity, especially for dog lovers.
https://grapeejapan.com/152560
Race day had a beautiful sunrise.
The race started at 9:00 a.m., and as it was only a short direct subway ride, I didn’t leave the hotel until 7:00 a.m. Alex thought I expected them to come to the start, but was very happy when I told them it was unnecessary. The course would pass right by our hotel in Ginza at mile 21. With a choice of where to stay in Tokyo, I chose to be close to the finish line rather than the start.
It was mostly runners and family members on the subways at 7 a.m. on Sunday. As soon as one got off at Shinjuku Station (the busiest train station in the world, with 3 million people passing through on a weekday), many volunteers and signs directed us up the numerous levels to the City Hall area, where the race started. Alex and I had been there on our first day in Tokyo with our guide and went to the top of City Hall for the fantastic views.
On the walk to the start area, several people noted my Ironman tattoos and said, “This is NOTHING for you, huh?” or mentioned recent Ironmans they had done.
With a plan just to run under 4 hours, I was very calm about the race. I had run 26.2 miles in November at Ironman Florida AFTER swimming 2.4 miles and biking 112 miles (with a not fully recovered broken ankle on an 83-degree day).
I set my Garmin watch to a range that would keep me around 9 minutes per mile, which equals 3:55. I wore headphones, as I had read that the marathon had fewer fans and entertainment than other major races due to the different culture. I listened to a sci-fi audiobook, but there were actually a lot of cheering fans and music from rock to brass bands and traditional drummers.
Once above ground, it was a short walk to the security entrance. Tokyo had very strict rules, and no bottles, hydration backpacks, or other similar items were allowed for the race. Between their history of the Sarin gas subway attacks and the Boston Marathon bombing, they were super cautious.
AI Overview
The 1995 sarin gas attack on the Tokyo subway system by the Aum Shinrikyo cult led to the removal of many trash cans from public spaces in Japan, particularly in transportation hubs, as a security measure. The attack, which killed 13 people and injured thousands, prompted authorities to prioritize safety and visibility in public areas.
Here’s a more detailed explanation:
- The Attack:In March 1995, the Aum Shinrikyo cult released sarin gas on multiple Tokyo subway lines, causing widespread panic and casualties.
- Security Response:In the aftermath, many public spaces, especially subway and train stations, removed trash cans or replaced them with clear plastic bags to allow for easy visual inspection and deter potential future attacks.
- Public Perception:This change in public space design highlighted the lasting impact of the attack and the ongoing security concerns in Japan.
Alex and I noticed the complete absence of any public trash cans except at major tourist attractions. People are expected to take their trash home with them. We did quickly figure out, though, that it was required to have recycling bins for cans and bottles next to the ubiquitous vending machines found everywhere.
On the way to my corral, I passed through the City Hall plaza, today full of porta potties and people sitting on the grass, waiting until it was time to line up in their corral.
Many people running marathons are more picky than in the past, when everyone just drank whatever was provided. The online forums were full of people’s plans to bring powder and mix it into the provided water. I had ordered a case of Pocari Sweat and trained with it, so I knew I would be able to handle it. Alex liked it also, and we grabbed some at the expo when we were there. And a selfie of course.
I drank a few cups while waiting for the race to start. It is high in both calories and electrolytes with a very mild sweet flavor.
I found a nice curb to sit on, it was already so warm I took off my gloves.
Ten minutes before they would close off the corrals, I made my way into mine, and the energy level started to peak in the crowd. I would say it was 75% Japanese and the rest a mix from all over the world. Many people were on their 6-Star quest. 2,300 people received their 6-Star medals, bringing the total to 20,000.
The race start was right next to the Grand Hyatt, where “Lost in Translation” was filmed. It only took about 10 minutes to shuffle to the actual start line after the gun fired. Tokyo only had 37,000 starting compared to the 45-52,000 at the other majors. The course covered all of Tokyo’s notable neighborhoods. It had a few out-and-backs that were great because we got to see the pros zipping by on the opposite side of the road.
The temperature reached 73, and it was a little humid, but I was okay. It was delightfully refreshing for the rare sections when we had shade from tall buildings.
After the race, many people complained online that, for the “extreme” heat, there was not enough ice, etc. Still, these were, of course, only Americans and Europeans who had been training in the winter and were unaware that Tokyo had a milder climate (with palm trees, etc.) than Boston or London.
I had downloaded my “official” race photo package in April, but had never really looked through them. Here are some of the best.
The start: I liked that the course had very wide roads and didn’t get super crowded like in Chicago or Berlin where even at mile 15 you were tightly shoulder to shoulder whenever the roads narrowed.
Asakusa, mile 10: me, bottom left. I drank a cup or two of Pocari Sweat at every mile and made sure to smile for the many official photographers.
Nihombashi Mile 18:
Yaeso Mile 20:
Tokyo Tower Mile 22. It is 1100 feet tall and was the tallest building in Tokyo until the SkyTree (2000 feet!) was built in 2012.
Tamachi, Last turnaround, Mile 23
Mile 26…
Finished!!! 3:57
Alex enjoyed some free time in the hotel room after I left for the race, and then filmed a video of the Wheelchair athletes reaching mile 21 at 10:30 am.
Alex left the hotel and went under the road to the other side to watch the race.
Nice videos as the leaders pass by at mile 21, the lead pack of men, and then the first professional woman who had caught up with some slower elite men.
There was no tracking app for the race (unlike every other major marathon or Ironman I have done over the last decade), but Alex tracked me via my phone and an AirTag, imperfectly but better than nothing. I don’t usually run with my phone for a competitive race (the WEIGHT), but it was recommended to have a phone for Tokyo in case of an Earthquake (they are pretty common) or other emergency. Alex had a great spot to watch the race and they took many photos of people’s interesting hats and costumes.
I had considered wearing my shark hat, as I did in NYC 2023 and IM FL 2024, but opted for a simple Tokyo hat instead. One less thing to pack 😉
We had not (my fault) picked an “exact” spot for me to find Alex, so after mile 20, I just started trying to stay close to the fans on the sidewalk and luckily spotted Alex’s shirt from far away. They didn’t notice me until I got very close, I spared a few seconds for a hug. I was very emotional after that, as it was so amazing and wonderful that they were there for me, so many thousands of miles from home.
Some more of Alex’s photos.
Alex and I had planned to meet in the “family meet up” area in the Imperial Palace Garden, but… despite having been there already on Marathon day, it was so crowded and chaotic with most roads closed that Alex had trouble getting there. There were even more complaints on the FB group about the finish area confusion than about the heat. There were 6 different bib colors, and each followed a different route after finishing, winding in all different directions. It was actually fine for us because after I finished, it was a very long walk for me to get my goodies, a nice terry cloth robe, and finally my 6-Star medal. But by the time I got out of the barricades, I was quite a bit southeast of the finish line, while the family area was northwest of it, and I couldn’t even imagine how to get there across the course.
With the magic of cell phones, we just agreed to meet back at our hotel. It was about a 30-minute walk for me, which was fine. However, the road in front of our hotel was the actual course at mile 21, so I had to go down to the Ginza subway, walk under the road, and back up to our hotel. The steps down were slow and painful. The elevator up to our hotel was delightful. The photo below is our hotel (The Gate Hotel Ginza) with the lovely patio outside the 4th-floor lobby.
I didn’t see him, but there was another celebrity runner in Tokyo besides Paula.
Although he is now a criminal, at the time, when I ran my first NYC Marathon in 2003, it was well-publicized that P. Diddy would be running it. He ran with a few bodyguards at a time, who each only did 6 miles. He started right after the pros, so about 30 minutes before me, and I caught up with him on Central Park South. With only a half-mile to the finish, I considered slowing down and crossing the line with him to get seen on TV and in the papers. But I decided that a tawdry celebrity was not worth finishing even a minute slower than my best time, so I continued my sprint to the finish. In retrospect, an even better decision! Note the NYPD guy on the left of the screen, if he had just arrested Diddy, then….! And the body guard is next to Diddy (without a number as he only ran 6 miles) and is carrying Diddy’s water and stuff, damn celebrity cheaters!).
I think I ran 3:55-ish, but my certificate is packed away in a box somewhere. I remember it was hot and after the finish (at Tavern on the Green) I had to walk about 8 blocks north on Central Park West before finally out of the barriers. But there was no way to get across Central Park to my hotel on the East side so I had to walk over to 7th ave and all the way back down to 57th street to get across to the East side. When Alex and I ran in NYC together in 2023, they wanted to recreate the finish line photo the day after, but I think it was raining on Monday, and neither of us had the energy to trek up to the park. Plus, we had plenty of great photos.
Back to Japan… I texted Alex when I finally arrived, and we met at the hotel’s patio, where they took a great photo with the slower runners still passing by below us. It is useful to bring a professional photographer with me on my adventures.
After a quick shower, we were off to an animal cafe. Of all the things in Japan, they were the most difficult to make reservations for. Many of their websites were only in Japanese (and Google’s translation of reservation and payment websites is not very accurate), and several had no openings at all around the Marathon date.
Alex wanted very much to meet a Capybara, and this was the only opening, so sure, even after a marathon, “best dad ever?”.
I had visited the first Capybara cafe in America in January when I passed through St. Augustine, Florida. Now, there is one in Tampa as well. A quick search of photos on my MacBook for “Capybara” found … my buddy! The 3 in Florida were only 6 months old. The “cafe” there is a fundraising effort for a local wild animal rescue sanctuary. They didn’t “rescue” them, but rather bought the Capys; they are legal to have as pets in Florida with a license. (Even New York State allows this, but not New York City; they have enough large rodents already, and yes, I am talking about you, Pizza Rat.)
We decided to take a taxi, as it would have involved changing trains and taken almost an hour otherwise. It was VERY nice to be sitting in the air-conditioned taxi’s comfy seat for 40 minutes rather than possibly standing in a subway car on my weak legs.
This animal “cafe” featured cats and capybaras. “Cafe” as they offered cold and hot drinks from a small case.
Besides Alex and me, there was just a local man and his young daughter present. There was only one Capy, but she was very friendly. Their fur is very bristly, and their webbed feet are impressive. A full-grown female, she weighed about 60-70 pounds; the males grow twice as large.
We got to feed her snacks.
When we first arrived, the cats were all relaxing on various perches and beds, but were happy to be petted. When Alex was given some treats to feed the cats, they swarmed them.
Capys are known for getting along with other animals, and Instagram is full of images of them with all sorts of creatures.
The cats were enamored with the Capy.
Here is a cute 2-minute video. I love the underwater swimming video.
Right across the street from the “cafe” was a Don Quijote store. Alex had been to one or two already and wanted me to experience it, assuming I was Superman and fine to walk some more.
I was trying to think of a comparable store in America, but other than saying it was a mix of Dollar Tree, Target, Walmart, and Claire’s, it’s indescribable. I found a good article:
On the street level, there was a large aquarium with interesting fish, and even on the street, you could hear loud music, which was atypical for Japan.
The total sensory overload of lights, music, and electronic sounds on six floors of winding aisles was the total opposite of the Zen quiet of the rest of Japan.
I shot a video as I knew still photos wouldn’t be adequate (be sure your sound is on):
The “maid” costumes are a whole separate “Japan” thing.
The article I linked above describes how the disorganization of the stores is intentional, designed to keep you in and shopping longer. I was still surprised to discover that, as I was shooting a video on the kids’ toy floor, the X-rated section was right in the center of it!
Alex got some cute collectible toy things for friends at a different time and also bought us both T-shirts! I suggested we both wear them the same day (for photos), but they said no. I also bought an extra suitcase (for our souvenirs) at the Ginza store the day before we would leave for Kyoto on the bullet train.
By the time we left, it was dark outside, and I took a few photos of the Suginami neighborhood, which was very nice and much more of a typical residential area compared to the ritzy, business, and tourist areas in central Tokyo.
As I had been doing since our second day in Japan, I blindly followed Alex to the correct train platform; this suburban station did not have the safety gates that were present in central Tokyo. As it was later in the day and we were heading towards downtown, we knew the subway would not be as crowded, and I would be able to sit and rest my weary legs.
Back at the hotel, I took a delightful Epsom salt bath with some meditation music playing, “almost” an Onsen.
The “Hardware”!
I call the 6-star medal my $20,000 necklace, as that’s probably what I’ve spent on the six marathons over the years. But totally worth the money. I prefer spending money on experiences rather than things. I’ve never wanted a Porsche or Rolex, but I do want to continue traveling the world and meeting non-Americans.
Thank you so much for reading. I thoroughly enjoyed reviewing the photos and reminiscing about that great day.
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You are amazing. Keep running 🍾🍷👌